Classical Approaches to Oil Painting
One of the best known techniques for oil painting uses a toned ground
that shows through in the finished work. The advantages are:
1. Economy of effort: only paint in tones lighter or darker than the
middle tone need be applied.
2. Thinner layers of paint, and hence a cheaper and more durable product.
3. Better control of tones, achieved through phasing the stages and
correcting with final glazes.
The disadvantages are:
1. Careful planning is needed, as 'mistakes' or afterthoughts will
show through.
2. Calls for considerable facility with the brush, as the work is often
built up in successive and partly transparent brush sketches.
Painting on a Toned Ground
Steps:
1. Place an accurate drawing over the toned ground.
2. Shade shadows with thin raw umber washes, allowing the ground to
show through. Paint dead color
as pale thin turps washes of eventual colors. Washes, ground and
shadows now form a three-tone scheme.
3. Dry. The old masters would have used lean colors, in essential oils,
and allowed canvas to dry for months at this stage to ensure that no
oil was left to dry later.
4. Remodel above with thicker, more opaque colors, still allowing ground
to show through. The old masters understood that each pigment should
have its medium adjusted to take account of individual properties.
5. Dry.
6.
Repaint with more definition, still allowing ground to show through. The
yellows need to be reduced as the painting will yellow slightly in time.
7. Dry.
8. Add glazes, thickening or
wiping out as necessary.
Rubens (see detail) painted with varnish, wet into wet over a less absorbent
white, gray or pink ground. Lights were put in impasto with a stiff brush
and afterwards very lightly blended.
Painting on a Dark Ground
The second of the classical techniques for oil painting, used by Rembrandt,
Velazquez and others for strong chiaroscuro effects, employs a dark ground.
The dark ground serves for shadows, other areas being built up as layers
in varying degrees of opaqueness.
Steps:
1.
Darken the ground.
2. Ensure the ground is dry.
3. Trace an accurate drawing or sketch in the main outlines as required.
3. Dry.
4. Underpaint in grisaille,
modeling tones with frotties
and using glazes over the dark ground.
5. Dry.
6. Apply the upper layers of paint, usually in several sessions, keeping
the tones on the light side to allow for later glazes.
7. Add highlights in white.
8. Dry.
9. Add colored (generally multiple) glazes.
Alla Prima
Alla prima resembles the above, but largely does away with final glazes.
Paint is more thickly applied, but needs skill as final adjustments are
not so easily made.
Steps:
1.
Add a careful shaded brush sketch to a pale-toned ground.
2. Add shadows in two levels of glaze. The work now has three tones.
3. Scumble in white highlights while the glazes are still wet.
4. Dry.
5. Add colors, as frotties or spread colored glazes which are then worked
into with some white or body color. The ground still shows through.
6. Rework the last layer with more body color.
7. Add finishing touches of thin body color.
Fa Presto
Fa presto resembles alla prima but there is no preliminary drawing and
the paint is applied directly to the ground. Strictly, this is not direct
painting because a. the ground is usually allowed to show through
and b. everything is carefully planned beforehand.
Steps
1. Over a lightly toned ground paint in washes and frotties the broad
areas of color This application is generally lean and usually allows some
of the ground to show through.
2. Rework the application with a fatter medium and more body color
3. Add finishing details.
The painting can be left to dry between each step or completed in the
one session.
References
Visit Janson's site and consult some the books listed below.
1. How
to Paint your own Vermeer. Jonathan Janson's beautiful and informative
site on Vermeer's practices and those of the old masters generally.
Very full bibliography.
2. Methods and Materials of the Painting of the Great Schools and
their Masters: Two Volumes Bound as One by Sir Charles Lock Eastlake.
Dover Publications 2002. Reprint of classic 1847 text.
3. The Artists's Handbook of Materials and Techniques by Ralph
Mayer. 5th Edition. Viking Press. 1991.
4. Formulas for Painters by Robert Massey. Watson-Gupthill.
1980.
5. The Materials of the Artist and their Use in Painting by
Max Doerner. Harvest Books. 1984
6. The Artist's Methods and Materials. M. Bazzi. John Murray.
1960.
Illustrations
10a. The Message by Jan Verkolje. Mauritshuis. The Hague. Details
shows what is possible (and only possible) with scumbles and glazes.
10b. Lion Hunt by Peter Paul Rubens. c.1615. The National Gallery.
London. Great vigor in the brushwork sketches that are to be built into
a final, many-layered work.
10c. Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez. 1656. Museo del Prado
Madrid. Note the variety of edges, some sharp, some soft, in Velázquez's
work.
10d. The Artist and his Wife in a Honeysuckle Bower by Peter Paul
Rubens. 1609-10. Alte Pinakothek. Munich. Detail shows Rubens' skill in
handling the brush in alla prima work.
10e. The Oyster Catchers by John Singer Sargent. c.1878. Museum
of Fine Arts. Boston. Appears an Impressionist sketch painted on the spot,
but in fact adopts an old master approach with layers and glazes handled
with great bravura.
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